What Is a Tartan Sett? (How Tartan Patterns Are Structured)

A tartan sett is the repeating pattern of colors and stripes that defines a tartan. Every tartan is built from a specific sett, which determines how the design looks and how it repeats across the fabric.

Understanding the sett is key to understanding how tartan works.

What Makes Up a Tartan Sett?

A tartan sett is made up of a sequence of colored threads arranged in a specific order.

It defines:

• The order of the colors
• The width of each stripe
• How the pattern repeats

This sequence is followed in both directions of the fabric, which creates the recognizable crisscross pattern.

How Does a Tartan Sett Repeat?

The sett repeats in a mirrored pattern, meaning the sequence of colors runs forward and then reverses.

This creates a symmetrical design that looks consistent no matter where you look on the fabric.

Because of this structure, a tartan can be reproduced accurately by different weavers as long as the sett is followed correctly.

To learn more about tartan basics, see:
→ What is a tartan?

Why the Sett Matters in Kilts

In kilt making, the sett plays an important role in how the garment looks.

Kilts are often pleated in one of two ways:

• To the sett (showing the full pattern)
• To the stripe (highlighting a specific line in the pattern)

This affects how the tartan appears when worn, especially on the back of the kilt.

Is the Sett Always the Same?

The sett itself stays consistent for a specific tartan, but it can appear slightly different depending on the fabric weight, weave, and color variation (such as modern or ancient styles).

Even with these variations, the underlying structure of the sett remains the same.

Final Thoughts

The tartan sett is the foundation of every tartan design. It controls how the pattern is built, how it repeats, and how it appears when used in clothing like kilts.

Once you understand the sett, it becomes much easier to recognize and compare different tartans.